Los alrededores

Si has tomado la sabia decisión de establecer tú campo base en Comillas, no sólo podrás saborear las mieles de esta villa modernista y marinera, también estarás muy cerca de otros lugares que nos encantan y que todavía hoy en día seguimos descubriendo.

A unos 20 minutos en coche y en dirección hacia el oriente te encontrarás con la villa de Santillana del Mar. Qué decir que no se haya dicho ya de Santillana, una de las villas más turísticas de Cantabria pero, qué le vamos a hacer, a nosotros nos gusta más Comillas. El asunto es que si vas a Santillana desde Comillas, vente con mucho tiempo de margen porque en el camino tienes varios sitios que visitar.

Para empezar, pegado a Comillas y en dirección Santillana, tenemos el municipio de Ruiloba. Visitar los acantilados de la Ermita del Remedio resulta espectacular y si ya te acercas a comer al restaurante el Remedio, has hecho el día, uno de los mejores de la comarca. Desde el restaurante sale una carreteruca con destino a Trasierra, una preciosidad de paseo que desemboca en dicho pueblo desde donde podrás seguir camino. La “capital” de Ruiloba es La Iglesia, una bonita localidad donde tomar algo y disfrutar de un ambiente agradable. Una de las grandes experiencias de las que puedes disfrutar en Ruiloba es la visita a las bodegas Miradoiro, una coqueta bodega que ofrece vistas guiadas y catas, de vez en cuando también realizan conciertos.

El siguiente municipio es Alfoz de Lloredo, merece la pena de verdad dedicar parte de tú tiempo a descubrir este precioso municipio. La capital del municipio es Novales, un bonito pueblo donde resulta muy agradable pasear, por ejemplo, la llamada ruta de los patos te llevará por rincones increíbles. Novales cuenta con un microclima que le permita ser un lugar privilegiado para el cultivo de limones, así que ya sabes, no dejes de probarlos. De vuelta a la carretera de camino a Santillana no te pierdas el Monasterio Trapense de Viaceli. Da igual si eres creyente o no, pero tienes que probar su queso de Trapa. Al lado tienes también la iglesia barroca de San Martín, en Cigüenza, una verdadera joya del patrimonio de Cantabria. Pero, sin duda, uno de los sitios más especiales de este municipio es el llamado Molino del Bolao, donde encontrarás los restos de un antiguo molino y la desembocadura de un riachuelo, una auténtica pasada y un lugar cada vez más conocido, de hecho, aparece en la película “17” de Daniel Sánchez Arévalo, nuestro director favorito.  Otro sitio parecido, pero ni mucho menos igual, son los acantilados de Puerto Calderón, en Oreña, donde al parecer en época romana y altomedieval se situó una estructura portuaria, te puedes imaginar: vacas, mar, verde, azul…no te lo pierdas.

Si en vez de ir hacia Oyambre, prefieres dirigirte a San Vicente de la Barquera, vas a tener que pasar por Valdáliga, tierra natal de Juan De Herrera ( arquitecto de El Escorial . Lo normal en Valdáliga es visitar la playa y el parque natural de Oyambre , o bien tomarse  unas copas en alguno de los bares de  Guerruca mientras se disfruta de una de las mejores vistas de Cantabria, pero yo te recomiendo también que eches un vistazo a sus localidades de interior, especialmente Herrerías y San Vicente del Monte, sobre todo esta última localidad merece la pena por sus paisajes y por la controvertida historia de su calzada romana. Si te gusta comer y piensas que el cocido montañés debiera ser declarado patrimonio de la humanidad, en Valdáliga tienes un par de sitios de rechupete: El Tropezón y Casa Cofiño.

Pasado Oyambre y las espectaculares playas siguientes, uno se puede detener en San Vicente de la Barquera. San Vicente bien merece una parada, confluencia de rías, sus alrededores son espectaculares, y a mí me encanta la ruta de los faros. Destaca también su Casco Viejo y su iglesia, que guarda el sepulcro del inquisidor Corro, una maravilla escultórica. San Vicente cuenta con un castillo medieval, pues no en vano fue una villa importante con fuero propio. En el castillo se puede visitar una exposición del Pájaro Amarillo, una historia que merece la pena conocer , te recomiendo el documental de Antonio Rasines  para ello.

Desde San Vicente puedes optar por descubrir la península de Pechón y sus encantos marineros o, si eres más de interior, optar por conocer el valle del Nansa. Si decides esto último no te vas a arrepentir: la cueva del Soplao, Carmona, la Ferrería de cades, la cueva de Chufín o el pueblo y casona de Tudanca; de verdad, una pasada de Valle. Una de mis excursiones preferidas es llegar al mirador de Santa Catalina y hacer la ruta mitológica, se te caerán los pantalones y, desde ahí, internarte en el valle de Liébana, probablemente la comarca más bonita de Cantabria, pero no te vamos a contar más porque no queremos hacernos la competencia.

Si en vez de ir a oriente o a occidente decides ir hacia el sur, también habrás tomado una buena decisión.  En el municipio de Udías te recomiendo que hagas una visita guiada a las antiguas minas o bien una excursión por la vía verde de Pelurgo. Antes de llegar a Cabezón de la Sal no te puedes perder el famoso bosque de las Secuoyas  que, entre tú y yo, está bien, pero hay bosques mucho más bonitos en Cantabria. En Cabezón puedes parar y dar una vuelta, sobre todo si es día de mercado, pero yo diría que es más bonito visitar la siguiente localidad: Carrejo. Preciosa localidad con arquitectura montañesa de primer nivel y un museo de la naturaleza que la verdad está muy bien. Desde Carrejo sale también una ruta interesante: la senda del Micón, un paseo pegado al río Saja apto para todos los públicos. Continuando el curso del río Saja te adentrarás en el valle de Cabuérniga, esencia cántabra 100 %. Te reto a encontrar un sitio donde no se coma bien, complicado. Puedes parar en Ruente, Ucieda  o en  Bárcena Mayor , conocer cualquiera de las localidades de este agreste valle es una experiencia cercana a lo sublime. Si te gusta la naturaleza estás en el sitio adecuado, si te gusta el senderismo, vas a disfrutar.  Por último, continuar por la carretera con dirección sur hasta el Puerto de Palombera- recorriendo una de las vías más antiguas de comunicación entre la costa y el parte sur de Cantabria- resulta especialmente gratificante  y, conocer el sur de esta región que también existe, una pasada para los sentidos.

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